Saturday, December 15, 2007

It´s not goodbye, it´s hasta luego.

Okay, this is it. The HECUA CILA Fall 2007 term has oficialy ended. On Thursday, the other students and I gathered at a couple different houses to prepare a goodbye dinner. Me made some pretty delicious enchiladas and chili, but without a doubt, the star of the evening was the Concha y Toro wine. We all met at our program director, Martha´s house along with our host families to enjoy the food. We also received pretty cool T-shirts we had designed as a rememberance of the program. They´re bright green, in the style of the flags you´ll find all over Quito supporting la Alianza País (Correa´s party.) They´re obnoxious, but great.

Following the little fiesta, we dispersed to our homes to put the finishing touches on our final independent study projects.

The next day (Friday) is when things really started to get crazy. I had my last morning at my internship. They thanked me for my work and gave me a super sweet Evo Morales T shirt. It wasn´t too sad, because it´s hard to get attached to people when you´re just doing data entry for them...

Following lunch, I walked to the HECUA office one last time to hand in my final document to Martha. We hung out and chatted for a while. I´m for sure going to miss her and the rest of the HECUA staff--they´re pretty cool ladies.

Since Friday was the official end of the program, students are starting to head home as early as Saturday. So Friday night was spent going through round 1 of goodbyes and hasta luegos. In a fashion true to how we have enjoyed Quito´s nightlife in the past 3 months, it involved cheap falaffal, cheap beer, cheap cocktails, and maybe too much salsa and reggaetón for our own good.

The next few days (as in my FINAL THREE) will be mix of last minute shopping, welcoming home my host sister from Costa Rica, packing, confirming flight plans, more goodbyes, and probably one last Pilsener.

It´s pretty amazing how I´ve spent a good part of this trip longing for airport hugs and reunions, to the point where my heart would skip a beat out of absolute excitment. Now, there´s still beats being skipped, but mixed with an overwhelming feeling of "uhh, really, like, I really have to leave?"

Yeah, it´s complicated.

My plan is to do one last entry (probably on Monday.) All I can say now, is I´ll see you very, very, very soon.

Monday, December 10, 2007

Baths.

I´ve just spent what was perhaps the best weekend yet in Ecuador.

The city: Baños
The group: Me, Nate, Anna, Marge, Sumo, Becca
The dates: Friday-Sunday
Highlights: A good amount of garlic bread, biking 60 Kms (that´ll be about 40 miles) through the Andes to a town called Puyo (which offically counts as the Amazon region,) sucking on sugar cane, a nightime ride on what was more or less an open-air party bus to hopefully catch a glimpse of a nearby erupting volcano (no such luck, but there was a great view of the city and some pretty delcious Canelazo-a warm cinnomon drink with caña-sugar cane alcohol, however, it´s different than rum,) soaking in natural thermal baths with a pretty spectacular view of the mountains, and bridge jumping--differnt from bungee jumping because rather than using a bungee cord, you use a regular cord or more or less swing like a pendulum (pretty sweet, pretty scary.)

So, obviously, a good time.

Alao, we´re down to 8 days, guys. Really.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

El Panecillo and why Germania couldn´t go.

First, after several complaints, my last entry has been edited with some translations. Sometimes I forget that not everyone knows what a llapingacho is.

Last night was awesome and funny.

My host mom, dad, brother, and I went to Panecillo (that would be an external link.) I went there during the day within a week of arriving in Quito, but I´d heard that it´s beautiful at night. You´re on top of a hill and you can see the entire city and all it´s lights. Being as it´s chirstmastime, there were giant (kind of gaudy) wisemen and stable animals accompanying La Virgen. Also, seeing it is Fiestas de Quito (celebrating the Spanish foundation of the city) there where games, food, and a general air of festivity.

It was incredibly beautiful.

The funny part was that while my host dad, and brother and I were walking around, my host mom sat in the car with a portable television watching her Zorro (an Ecuadorian soap opera of sorts.) She kind of apologized by exclaiming "La esclavitud! La esclavitud!" (The slavery!) In reference to her being a slave to night time television, I guess.

Then we had pizza. Choclo pizza. Pizza with corn on it. I have never had anything more delicious.

¡Viva Quito!

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Imbabura: an oil bath, tomarillos, and some christmas shopping.

Saturday marked the end of our final HECUA coordinated field trip. This time around, we boarded a bus and drove north to Imbabura province to the cities of Otavalo and Cotacahi.

Green. Mountains. Lakes. Beautiful.

First stop: a clinic where Western medicine and Traditional medicine collide. A highligt (but also a lowlight) includes experiencing a traditional cleansing performed by an Indigenous man who had learned the trade from his grandfather at the age of 3. This cleansing involved plants, and oil. So much oil. Oil on my face, neck, arms, and hair. oil in my hair. So much. Cleansing, but still kind of messy.

From there, visits to a an artesian couple who have been spinning wool and making beautiful scarves, blankets, etc together for 30 years. Then to a andean instrument workshop where I tried to play Take On Me with panpipes the whole time.

Both nights where spent with Indigenous families in La Comunidad de Morochos. Everytime I tried to help with dinner or breakfast, my host mom just told me to siga no más (go ahead,) sit down at that table, and eat my delicious food. New favourite: warm tomarillos (small, sweet tomato-like fruit) for breakfast. Awesommmmmmme.


One could consider the Fería de Otavalo to be the main event of this trip. Imagine a giant plaza and it´s surrounding streets packed with people selling everything from hammocks, to sweaters to jewelery, to pipes, to grilled corn. Then imagine it being packed with people. Um, mom, I´m just saying, don´t worry about getting any alpaca blankets anytime soon.

Other highlights include being able to sit in on La Asamblea de Cotacachi,(more or less the community´s decision-making body,) a boat ride around a crater lake, cuy (that would be guinea pig,) and some really good llampingachos (cheese and potato all mixed together and fried.)

Today is the 2 week marker, I´m in the middle of Fiestas de Quito, and wrapping up final papers and exams. Oh man, exciting.

Look for updates on Fiestas de Quito and the complimentary Quitu Raymi within the week.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

"Up where the clouds meet the snow."

To begin, deepest apologies for the complete lack of updates. I suppose to be honest, nothing has been too terribly blog-worthy.

I´ve been busy at my internship creating a giant database of NGOs, media outlets, senators, and congresspeople from the U.S. It´s a bit arduous, but I´m getting to be a total pro with Microsoft Excel. So, that´s good I guess.

Thanksgiving came and went, as it always does. I was able to call home and talk to like, EVERYONE. It was awesome. Thank yous to Mom, Dad, Kate, Warren, Pat, Beth, Cindy, Mary, Ryan and Grandma for putting up with the horrible delay. Tou are all the best and I love you.

Being the sentimental sap I am, the day was kinda weird. The worst part was being SO hungry and thinking of everyone at home eating an amazing dinner. Although, the asparagus I had for lunch really was delicious, and Mom promised me turkey with mashed potatos when I get home. Exciting.

Lately, when I´´m not making databases or missing Thanksgiving, I´ve been working on a giant paper for my independent study. I´m on the translating stage. So that´s taking 20 pages of my written work in English and translating it into Spanish. It´s going quite well, except I hit snags when I have to translate things like "international lending regulations."

I´ve also been looking forward to having the entirity of the week of 3 Dec - 7 Dec off to do a bit of traveling and, of course, enjoy Fiestas de Quito, however...SURPRISE we only get Wednesday and Thursday off that week (as does the whole country.) Well, hopefully I can swing a long weekend in the rainforest or something...

I´m down to about 3 weeks, which is absolutely incredible. Once the 18 Dec rolls around, I´ll be ready to get back home, but leaving will be horrible. I know Í´m just going to be a mess on the plane. Just a giant emotional train-wreck. Should be fun. :)

This week: relatively normal for the first half, then off to Otavalo for Thursday-Saturday, including homestays with indigenous families, a world famous market, and some pretty lakes. Look for a play-by-play next weekend.

Today, work on that paper, and celebrate Emma´s birthday with Mongolian barbeque and cheap cocktails. Yum.

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Valle de El Chota

2 days spent in Valle de El Chota--4 hours north of Quito, known for it´s hot, dry climate, and it´s huge population of Afro Ecuadorians.

Our base, of sorts, was a center designed to promote cultural learning for tourists in the town of Mascarilas. We ate all of our meals in a dining room that always smelled like pizza, but we never actually ate pizza, which was devastating for me.

As one would imagine, the area is surrounded by the most beautiful mountains, and green, green, green. With the dollarization proccess, profitable agriculture nearly became out of the question, so many groups formed (usually comprised of women) to make and sell jewelery using seeds, clay, and glass, greeting cards made out of paper maché, as well as beautiful masks made out of clay.

We visited a pre-school, where we sang songs for each other and taught games like duck, duck, grey duck. We got our hands dirty making tiny ceramic pots and masks, and stayed with host families for the night.

The sun was hot, the Pilsener was served room-temperature, and the times were fun.

Monday, November 5, 2007

Vacation in Three Parts

10 day vacation. 10 buses. 6 students. 3 cities. 2 beaches. 1 backpack.

Part I - Canoa

more whole wheat pancakes every day for breakfast. lots of sun. Pilsener and ice cream on the beach for lunch. Mosquito nets. so much sunscreen. ocean gymnastics. drawing moustaches on your finger and putting it under your nose because it´s so funny. bonfire on the beach with local surfers. debating the politics and ethics of dance. mojitos. card games.

Part II - Montañita

more beach. wet. rain. seaspray. general humidity. beautiful beach. swinging in the hammock chair. too many fried plantains. slightly ill. a day of sprite and crackers. muddy roads. parlour tricks. more ocean gymnastics. sharing music. hot showers.

Part III - Cuenca

back to the mountains. fiestas celebrating the city´s indepdence. cold, crisp air at night. ice cream. sunny. beautiful rivers cutting through the city. colonial. a day hike in Parque Nacional Cajas. declicious wine and curried chicken. favourite ecuadorian city. guaguas de pan.

NOTE: Honestly, posting photos is a real headache. So, if you want to see photos, guess you´ll have to call me when I´m home. We´ll make a date out of it.

At the end of this week, we´ll be taking a program coordinated field trip to an Afro Ecuadorian community. Look for updates around Saturday 10 November.

Also, I miss you.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Vacation!

Dearest Readers,

Tonight I´m getting on a bus bound for Canoa where I´ll spend 3 days, then we´ll work our way down the coastline by bus and then inland to Cuenca. I´ll be back in Quito on Monday, 5 November.

Look forward to photos, and tales of adventure.

Monday, October 22, 2007

Midterm

In four hours I´ll be taking my midterm exam-which sounds like will only consist of me reflecting/writing on my experiences in Ecuador thus far, as well as a commentary on Chief Seattle´s letter to Washington (beautiful.) This is like, reason 10045678 why I love the HECUA program.

With midterm exams, comes midterm vacations. This means a few more days on the beack in Canoa, a few days in Cuenca (Ecuador´s third largest city,) and Baños (named after it´s hot springs.)

Along with exams and vacation, midterm also brings a sense of introspection and general reflection. Without going into all the (sappy) details, I will simply say, I am different, and new, and changed-I like to think for the better.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Canoa -or- How I Learned to Calm Down and Start Liking Reggae






A long weekend on the coast of Ecuador. It was pretty much everything one would imagine it would be.

A truly horrific, long, sometimes hot, sometimes cold, 7 hour bus ride from Quito to Bahía de Caráquez, followed by a ferry ride across the bay, followed by a 20 minute bus ride (or a ride on the back of a fruit truck in the case of our retrun trip.) to the tiny beach town of Canoa in Ecuador´s Manabí province.

Canoa is four blocks of dirt roads stretching inland from the coast and more or less exclusively consists of little hotels, restaurants, and bars.

The trip was made with four other students, and pretty much all we did was eat the most delicious whole wheat pancakes you could ever imagine, lay on the beach, lay in hammocks, and drink cheap cold Brahma (Ecuador brewed beer, apparently pretty popular on the coast,) and Cuba Libres.

A note about these Cuba Libres: I´ve never even really liked rum and coke, but when you add some fresh lime and call it a Cuba Libre, I will drink it right up.

A note about those hammocks: Divine. There is no way I will be leaving Ecuador without one.

Our home for the weekend was a cozy, 2 story, thatched roof suite we all shared- Complete with mosquito nets and a balconies.

The weather was good. No rain. Everyday was slightly overcast, but still quite warm.

Now I´m just kind of sunburned and already planning the next possible chance to return.

Now, two more weeks of class, my internship, and investigations regarding my independent study, then our mid-term break which will be spent in the cities of Cuenca (Ecuador´s third largest city) and Baños (named for it´s natural hot springs.)

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Celebrating.

First, remember that blog I posted last week ragarding St. Thomas brass more or less un-inviting Desmond Tutu to speak this spring on campus? UST president Dennis Dease has posted a letter to all UST staff and students expressing his regret for his un-informed decision, and in turn, has formally invited Tutu back to campus to speak at the PeaceJam event this April.

Still no word on re-instating my dear Cris Toffolo as chair of the Justice and Peace Studies Department...

I am personally celebrating this, and to augment the whole situation, I´M GOING TO THE BEACH TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!

I´ll be leaving at 11:30 tonight with 5 other students, we´ll drive through the night and get to the beach town of Canoa just in time for breakfast on Friday. We´ll spend three days there and come back on Sunday.

I´m so excited.

More details and pictures upon my return!

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Life with the Pacheco Maflas and a trip to the beach.

The Pacheco - Maflas: A character sketch

Germania Mafla - Mother. Yoga instructor and natural therapist. A very good cook. Speaks very Ecuadorian, everything is cafecito and pancito. Loves evening soap operas and singing.

Nelson Pacheco - Fatber. Former electircal engineer, now a full time yoga instructor and natural therapist. Resembles my real dad in the sense that he pretty much knows everything about everything. We talk a lot about world economics and all things Ecuador-weather, people, language, social norms, etc.

Leonel - Brother. 15. Makes funny faces. Goes to school about an hour away. I think he picks up on my awkwardness more than the other members of the family. Really likes sports.

Yan - Brother. 25. Lives in an apartment with friends. Likes a lot of the same music as I do. Always very busy teaching pilates, yoga, and writing his thesis. Sometimes comes home for lunch. Don´t see him very often.

Rahel - Sister. 20. Currently studying in Costa Rica (where Nelson´s mother is from.) She may come home for a while on 15 Dec, so I will get to meet her. Germania thinks we will get along really well.

Jordy - Brother. 18. Currently studying in England. He left the day I arrived. I don´t know anything about him.

We spend the most time together during lunch. In the evening, everyone is usually off teaching yoga, grocery shopping, or enjoying telenovelas (soap operas.) On Sunday I go to Parque Metropolitano with Nelson to do yoga and capoira. Also on Sunday afternoons we watch movies together. This is more or less the extent of our hanging out as of now.

All in all, everything is super chévere with the Pacheco Maflas.

This weekend, as I had alluded to in my previous blog, there was a slight chance of me going to Colombia with Germania and Nelson, however, the HECUA program director had some worries, especially since we were traveling by bus.

Instead, I´m going to the beach with some other students! The whole country has Friday off for Fiestas de Guayaquil, so it sounds like we´ll be leaving on Thursday and coming back on Monday. I´m hoping hoping hoping it won´t rain...

Monday, October 8, 2007

Lindo Mindo, bruised hands, and ¨favorite day.¨


Mariposerio



View from the lodge´s deck.


My home for a night.





It is not a coincendence that Mindo rhymes with ¨Lindo¨


Oh you know, just hiking through a cloud forest...


Tulipe--ceremonial grounds of the Yubo tribe.




Palulauja--a little town inside a crater.


It´s been four days of Ecuadorian bliss, I suppose I´ll just start at the beinnging.

Maybe in the grand scheme of things, Thursday night was pretty unimportant, but for the first time, I saw Quito´s historic district at night. Beautiful. Then Pilsener and pizza. Equally beautiful.

This is where things really start happening...

I woke up so early on Friday morning, we left the HECUA office around 8 in a little bus/really big van. This was the first of a series of 3 program sponsered side trips. First stop: One of the only inhabited craters in the world. We only hung out at the top for a bit, and took some photos, but in the future, I hope to climb down--which is entirely possible.

Next stop: Tulipe--a ceremonial center used by the Yubo tribe of the Incas. Petroglyphs, and rocks stacked in the shape of the moon, the sun, and a jaguar.

Then: We drive and we drive and we drive and we drive and then we find ourselves in a cloud forest. It is defenitely beautiful. We keep driving and end at a nature reserve/lodge. Think of a rustic structure of wood, surrounded by tree covered hills, and this is where we stayed. After an amazing lunch, featuring Tiramisu made by a real live Italian which was also a birthday cake for Anna, a fellow student who was lucky enough to turn 20 in one of the most bio diverse places on earth.

THEN, we meet our guide, pull on some rain boots and beging braving the muddy trails of Mindo. It rained a bit in the beginning, and usually rain makes me sad, but this time I didn´t even care because I was walking in a subtropical rainforest, where the trees and the clouds literally meet. We walked and we walked and we walked and everything was so beautiful. Every 20 paces our guide would stop and point out a medicinal plant. We saw little waterfalls and a gallo de peña, which is, based on what we were told, pretty rare.

After about 2 1/2 hours, we were back at the lodge, we wanted more Mindo, so most of us did a small hike to the top of a mountain. It was muddy, and beautiful.

It is also important to note, that in no way, shape or form could ANY description or photo properly do justice to the views and sounds of a subtropical cloud forest.

After 5 hours of walking, we enjoyed a much needed, and, again, delicious meal at the lodge. The rest of the night consisted of celebrating Anna´s birthday with Pilseners, and card games--including one which involved slapping other players hands, and resulting in my waking up the next day with a few bruises.

Saturday began with breakfast and a little drive to the actual town of Mindo. We visited a Mariposerio, or, um, well, more or less a butterfly farm/sanctuary of sorts. So you´re in a screened off area, which is kind of landscaped like a garden, and there´s butterflies EVERYWHERE. It was great. There were little bits of melon out, and you were encouraged to put a bit of juice on your finger and attempt to hold a butterfly. Some of us were successful, others, not so much. I fell into the later catagory.

Post-mariposerio, we put on swimming suits, life jackets, and helmets. Imagine 7 standard black tubes tied together, with 6 people and a quide sitting in them, and being hurled down Rio San Carlos over rocks and rapids. That´s what we did. It was amazing and scary and fun.

Finally, lunch with a view. By view I mean LOTS of hummingbirds, and a tour through an orchid garden. Mindo is known for their Huge variety of fuana and flora.

Before we knew it, we were back in Quito. I showered, found a slug amongst my things, and slept A LOT.

On Sunday I did the usual yoga and capoira in the park, then a delicious brunch with other students at a place in the Mariscal called the Magic Bean. Strong coffee, chocolate chip pancakes and bacon. Exactly what I needed. Later in the day, Marie Antoinette with my host parents. Sunday afternoon movie watching has certainly become a tradition, and one I could get used to.





In the next few days, look for more details about my host family, and the small posibility of going to Colombia on Friday...

Thursday, October 4, 2007

More photos!

As promised, photos:


La Vista de Quito de La Basilica

El grupo (minus one)

Fútbol

Quito Lindo

Family portrait

Mitad Del Mundo

Really, UST!? I mean, really!?

Nothing to do with my adventures in Ecuador, however, this is incredibly important to me, and my fellow students at the University of St. Thomas. Please read!

From 10-3-07 article from the City Pages:
http://articles.citypages.com/2007-10-03/news/banning-desmond-tutu/

Banning Desmond Tutu
By Matt Snyders


Is this the face of anti-Semitism? The University of St. Thomas seems to think so
Image by Courtesy the Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation. Photo by Benny GoolBack in April, when University of St. Thomas staffer Mike Klein informed his colleagues in the Justice and Peace Studies program that he'd succeeded in booking Archbishop Desmond Tutu for a campus appearance, the faculty buzzed in anticipation. For a program dedicated to fostering social change and nonviolence, there were few figures who embodied that vision more aptly than the world-renowned civil rights activist and Nobel Laureate.

Tutu's appearance—slated for the spring of '08—was made possible by the university's partnership with PeaceJam International, a youth-centered project that taps Nobel Laureates to teach young adults about peace and justice. For four straight years, the Catholic university's St. Paul campus had played host to PeaceJam festivities featuring Nobel Peace Prize winners such as Rigoberta Menchú Tum and Shirin Ebadi.

But in a move that still has faculty members shaking their heads in disbelief, St. Thomas administrators—concerned that Tutu's appearance might offend local Jews—told organizers that a visit from the archbishop was out of the question.

"We had heard some things he said that some people judged to be anti-Semitic and against Israeli policy," says Doug Hennes, St. Thomas's vice president for university and government relations. "We're not saying he's anti-Semitic. But he's compared the state of Israel to Hitler and our feeling was that making moral equivalencies like that are hurtful to some members of the Jewish community."

St. Thomas officials made this inference after Hennes talked to Julie Swiler, a spokeswoman for the Jewish Community Relations Council of Minnesota and the Dakotas.

"I told him that I'd run across some statements that were of concern to me," says Swiler. "In a 2002 speech in Boston, he made some comments that were especially hurtful."

During that speech, titled "Occupation Is Oppression," Tutu lambasted the Israeli government for its treatment of Palestinians in occupied territories. While a transcription clearly suggests his criticism was aimed at the Israeli government ("We don't criticize the Jewish people," he said during the speech. "We criticize, we will criticize when they need to be criticized, the government of Israel"), pro-Israeli organizations such as the Zionist Organization of America went on the offensive and protested campus appearances by Tutu, accusing him of anti-Semitism.

Hennes says the input officials received from "the Jewish community" in this case was confined to Swiler and a few rabbis teaching within St. Thomas's Center for Jewish-Christian Learning. "I think there's a consensus in the Jewish community that his words were offensive," Swiler reiterates.

That was news to Marv Davidov, an adjunct professor within the Justice and Peace Studies program.

"As a Jew who experienced real anti-Semitism as a child, I'm deeply disturbed that a man like Tutu could be labeled anti-Semitic and silenced like this," he says. "I deeply resent the Israeli lobby trying to silence any criticism of its policy. It does a great disservice to Israel and to all Jews."

The controversy didn't end there. Incensed at the administration's decision, Professor Cris Toffolo—chair of the Justice and Peace Studies program at the time—sent Tutu a letter on May 24 informing him of the administration's decision. She also indicated her disagreement with the move and warned Tutu that he might be in for a smear campaign.

University brass caught wind of the letter, and on August 1, Tom Rochon, executive vice president of academic affairs, sent a letter of his own to Toffolo informing her that St. Thomas administrators had decided to revoke her position as chair of the Justice and Peace Studies program.

Asked about the reasoning behind the demotion, Rochon and Hennes decline to comment. Toffolo herself is hesitant to offer any statements about it due to the sensitivity of her situation, though she did confirm that her letter to Tutu was the catalyst for her demotion.

"This is pure bullshit," says Davidov. "As far as fighting for civil rights, I consider Tutu to be my brother. And I consider Cris Toffolo to be my sister. They're messing with my family here. If Columbia permits a Holocaust denier [Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad] to speak at their university, why are St. Thomas officials refusing to let Tutu, an apostle of nonviolence, speak at ours?"

Davidov and other professors maintain that the situation at St. Thomas is emblematic of a larger issue.

"What happened at the University of St. Thomas is not an isolated event," says Toffolo. "Until we have an honest debate about U.S. policy related to Israel, and about Israeli policy in the Occupied Territories, the spiral of violence will continue."

Read more on the subject and send a letter to UST president, Father Dease, here.

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Bloomin´ where I´m planted.

I feel right at home at my internship here in Ecuador.

This is because in many ways, it echoes my internship I had at Legal Aid this past summer in Willmar, and by that I mean I have too much time on my hands. Although APDH has hosted A LOT of foreign interns in the past, for some reasons, they just don´t have a lot for me to do right now, so I spend a lot of time using their free and fast internet (which is hard to come by here.)Overall, a pretty sweet deal.

Regarding elections this past Sunday...OFFICIAL results won´t be known for another week or so, however, it´s pretty obvious that Correa´s party really swept the vote. More or less, this translated to Ecuador being able to look forward to a less corrupt, and more environmentally and socially friendly country. Awesome.

This week, when I´m not interning, going to class, homeworking, or trying to successfully call home, I´m following Mom´s advice and blooming where I´m planted. For me, this means acknowledging that at home, everyone is pretty much doing the some old thing in the same old place, and remembering that I´m doing some pretty amazing things in a pretty amazing place...even if it´s trying to get through a reading on immigration and xenofobia while having to look up crazy verbs every 3 sentences.

Also, look forward to: Photos from Mitad del Mundo (soon, I promise!!) as well as photos and details from my upcoming short stay in Mindo.

**A note: FYI...anytime a word is highlighted in GREEN, you can click on it and get more information about this particular topic. Sometimes I forget that not everyone was born in the age of the information super highway...**

Monday, October 1, 2007

Prohibition and a weekend of Ryan Gosling.

Elections were held on Sunday to vote for representatives to re-write Ecuador´s constitution. More info on that here. Voting is obligitory in Ecuador, and, as a result, selling or consuming alcohol was deemed illegal from Friday-Sunday. Prohibition, if you will.

The lack of access to bars and clubs resulted in a very movie-themed weekend for me, with concentration on Ryan Gosling´s work. Friday was hot, and delicious cheese empanadas in Plaza Foch, with an Ecuadorian orchestra playing movie themes, while scenes from the said movies were played on a giant screen. They even played some music from Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. I almost cried.

On Saturday, I had my first Ecuadorian movie experience. A very American-feeling theater in a very American-feeling shopping mall. Other students and I saw Fracture (this is where Ryan Gosling comes in, as he plays a main role.)

On Sunday I woke up early and headed to Parque Metropolitano with my host family and another HECUA student to do 2 hours of jugdo, capoeira, and yoga. Capoeira is the most amazing and fun thing anyone could ever do. It´s an old Brazilian martial art that mimics traditional martial arts as well as dancing. Brazilian slaves used this to train in defense, but it appeared that they were simply dancing the samba. I hope to find a place where I can take more classes when I return home.

Post-work out, Sunday was a pretty emotional day, for a number of reasons. As a result of it being Sunday, and also election day, all the net cafes I´m familiar with were closed, preventing me from being able to call home for the first time. A pretty bad deal for everyone involved. So, I walk home after my search for a cabina and I´m already pretty bummed, then my host mom is watching The Notebook, I sit down and watch it with her, and of course, I just lose it. (This is also where Ryan Gosling comes in.) So there you have it, a dry, but tear soaked weekend in Quito.

I also have a challenge for everyone at home. According to my sister, the leaves are somethin´else this fall. EMAIL ME SOME PHOTOS!

This week: mornings at my internship, class, and at the end of the week, a little trip to Mindo.

Friday, September 28, 2007

On living abroad+pop culture references.

Upon re thinking my last entery, I was comforted upon remembering that even if I was at home, there is no way I could go snowshoeing or plant green beans right now. I´m actaully doing a lot of pretty great things here that I couldn´t do at home. Things like going to a cloud forest, writing about it, and receiving credit, drinking rounds of Pilsener and not quite being 21, and, in general, hanging out in Ecuador.

Ecuador feels like another world, like a totally different universe where I´m not even officially living, and my life will start again when I get on Minnesota soil.

This is only half true maybe. No matter how you say it, living abroad is a complicated thing.

On another note, some points of interest:
-Books are pretty expensive here, like just under $20 for a paperback, medium sized Andy Warhol autobiography. On the other hand, Quito has a booming pirated film industry, allowing me to get Volver and Marie Antoinette for $1.50 each. Surely, I will be leaving Ecuador with the entire Almodovar collection for just under $10. Ridiculous...
-Nothing is better than being at a bar and hearing a 4 song Depeche Mode set inbetween pitchers of beer. Best.
-Can I just say Evo Morales?

Thursday, September 27, 2007

My life in fractions

More or less I am 1/4 done with this Ecuador thing, and the end of next week will already mark the 1/3 point. I´m counting down for two reasons: first, because I always do things like this, and second, because there´s a lot a lot a lot a lot at home that I miss so bad.

Please, by all means, do not even think about getting me wrong. I adore Quito and my time here as much as you can imagine, I just really really want to go snow shoeing through a forest and I also want to plant rhubarb and green beans in the spring, and most of the time my heart literally aches for christmas morning when I can drink real coffee and be with my family.

A lot of the time I think about how it will be getting off the plane in MPLS and how happy I will be and how the next day will be my 21st birthday.

I also know I will be absolutely devestated to leave my new home.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Mitad del Mundo, too much wine, and a bike crash.

A pretty fun weekend.

Saturday took an hour long bus ride North of Quito to reach the Equator. It´s important to note that this isn´t even the real equator, the French explorer who figured the calculations was actually off by about 600 feet. Whatevs, we went anyways. The centerpiece is a huge trapazoid figure with a globe resting on top, and the equator running straight through it. Of course, the obligitory photos were taken, with one foot in each hemisphere. Prety cheesy, but pretty fun.

Later that day...about 9 PM...

We found a place in the Mariscal where you pay $15, and you get all you can eat tapas (Spanish style appetizers,) and all you can drink house wine. End result: the most amazing potatos, chorizo, and chiles rellenos, and, way too much cabernet souvignon.

On Sunday, we rented some biked and braved the steep hills of Quito´s historic center with a guide. Every-other Sunday, a huge stretch of the city is closed off to anyone not on a bicycle or public transportation-this made our trek all the easier. En route to our second stop, we started out on a VERY steep hill (headed down.) I think I had far too much pressure on my front brake, resulting in me going head first over the handlebars. Pretty epic, and the smallest scratches. I guess that´s what you get when you ride bike in Quito...

Coming up: a week of mornings at my internship and class.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Internship, etc.

Wednesday morning marked the first day of my internship at la Asamblea Permanante por Derechos Humanos (Permanent Assebly for Human Rights.) My interview was at 10:30, by 11:00 I was making signs, and by 12:00 I was along La Avendia 12 de Agosto protesting Texaco´s complete lack of responsibility regarding oil extraction in Ecuador´s Amason region. More info here

APDH is dedicated to human rights in Ecuador and holds workshops for young people all over the country--teaching about human rights. In addition, they´re also very politically active.

This is a core component of my time in Ecuador, I mean, the program is called Community Internships in Latin America. In preparation for the time ahead, last night was spent discussing charity vs. solidarity when doing volunteer work.

The office is a mere 3 blocks from my house. I´ll be there from 10 AM to about 1:30 PM Monday-Friday. As of yet, what I´ll be doing is a bit unclear...stay tuned for updates.

On another note entirely, today we were waiting at the immigration office to receive our CENSO (ID card for foreigners,) and of course, Saved by the Bell was on, it was dubbed in Spanish, of course, and can I just say that Zach Morris is just as charming when dubbed...?

Tonight: a club 4 blocks from my house where a cumbia band is playing. Ladie´s get in free.

Dirty Dancing: Quito nights.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Mi Casa, Su Casa

Forgive the topsy-turvy nature of the photos. I´ll try to edit them later.






Monday evening.

As of this week,most of should have been spending the morning at our internships, however, as you know, we´re still tyring to work on mine. This translates into a lot of free time for me, and if there´s one thing I like to do with my free time, it´s blog.

One of the best things about Ecuador is being able to attend your usual Monday afternoon class, except during this class, you talk about how thousands and thousands and thousands of people who took to the street for 8 days and 8 nights in April 2005 in hopes of ousting their president--Lucio Gutiérrez. It worked. In the midst of all of this, you´re sharing amazing Spanish style hot chocolate and pastries. This is the best part: after class you enjoy 2 good sized mugs of Pilsener with some other students. Total cost of these two beers and a cab ride home--$6.00. Awesome. I´m really getting 24 credits for this?

Monday, September 17, 2007

La Vista de Pichincha



Facts and Figures

Damas y Caballeros,

Well, I realized most of my blog has consisted more or less of me talking about how much I love Ecuadorian beer, and how I´m homesick 50% of the time. Mom sent me a few logistical questions regarding my daily life in Ecuador via e-mail, so I figured that I´d answer them here, as I´m guessing that my mom isn´t the only one interested in these things.

1. What is your host house like---and the neighborhood??

My home here is the main level of a two story building, another family lives in the upper level. The house is very nice with lots of windows. My room is pretty tiny, but comfortable. It consistently smells like delicous food. The neighboorhood is very much in a commercial district. On one end of the block is a mall and Supermaxi (grocery store chain) and on the other end is La Avendia Colón-where you´ll find lots of stores, restuarants, government buildings, and a KFC every 10 blocks...

2. How do you get around to meet up with friends from school------especially at night???

Depending on where we´re meeting, I walk, take the bus, or a taxi. At night I ALWAYS take a taxi, as it´s not safe to walk around alone at night. Taxis are very cheap, as are buses. During the day, if I´m not going too far, I like to walk to get to know the city/exercise.

3. What type of food have you been eating???

Breakfast is usually a whole-grain cereal with fruit and some milk. Lunch is the main meal of the day and ALWAYS starts out with some kind of soup. I´ve been here for 2 weeks and I´ve yet to have the same soup twice. Usually they consist of different kinds of vegetables and/or beans. My favorite has been black bean potato soup. The second plate usually consists of rice and different vegetables or fruits. Sometimes it´s paired with a vegetable based "meat" or tofu. Since this is the main meal of the day, an evening meal is very light. We usually just have (delicious) bread with some jam or cream cheese with coffee or tea. If we´re really hungry, we have leftover soup.

4. Do you have any trips planned yet to the rainforest or Galapagos Islands???

So far, nothing planned for the Galapogos. We have a week off in late October, this is when I would most likely go. As for the rainforest, I believe we´re going in about 3 weeks. The place is actually what is called a "cloud forest," as due to the elevation the trees literally meet the clouds. I hear it´s like a dream. Also, it is known to be one of the most eco-diverse places on EARTH!!

5. Is things to buy expensive or cheap---examples??

More or less, things are slightly cheaper. I haven´t bought much at all. It very much depends on where you go. In Mariscal district (touristy) you´ll find a standard bottle of domestic beer for about $1.20. On the street, I´ve seen signs advertising lunches for $1.50! I can use the internet for an hour and 1/2 and pay just over $1.00. An important note: Ecuador has been using the USD since the mid ´90s to offset inflation after the oil boom, and the economic crisis that followed it.

6. What is your weekly schedule like?? Classes, internship, spending time with host family???

I´m still not on a regular schedule yet. These past two weeks have been a mix of orientation to the program, themes we´ll cover, and visits to sites around the city. Starting NEXT week I´ll have my internship from about 9AM-1PM on Monday-Friday. On Monday and Wednesday afternoons we´ll have class, and I think on Tuesday and Thursday will be integration seminars where we´ll discuss our daily life here, host families, struggles, successes, learnings, etc.

7. What is your mailing address???

If you want my mailing address, email me at kaerickson@stthomas.edu

Also...

I had previously reported that I will be interning at Jesuit Services for Migrants and Refugees, however, that has changed. I met with the HECUA program director this morning, and she reported that the director of the JSMR organization didn´t feel prepared/ didn´t have adequate work for a foregin intern. This is all fine with me, as for some reason I didn´t feel entirely comfortable at the interview....
I will be exploring a few more options this week, with the idea of starting this upcoming Monday.

On Saturday, we had a picnic in Parque Metropalitano with all the students and their host families. We played charades, did yoga, and ate delicious food. Truly, HECUA is a program of activists, punks, artists, and humanities majors. Love it.

Two very exciting upcoming events in Ecuador:
-The fall equinox on Sunday-where there will be NO SHADE. Crazy.
-Elections on the last Sunday of the month to vote for representatives to re-write Ecuador´s constitution. Again.

Talk about being in the right place at the right time...

Friday, September 14, 2007

¿Cual es lo mejor?

Primero, thanks to everyone for your emails. I´m super grateful for your support, and I loooove hearing about everything back home (which has apperantly been hilariously and appropriatly dubbed "San Pablo, the Minnesotan Cabo.") Keep ´em coming.

Overall, I´m feeling significantly better about everything. The group is bonding really well, I´m feeling a lot more comfortable navigating Quito autonomously, and I no longer get super sad when I hear an airplane take off.

This past week was a blur of visits to museos, Panecillos, and teleféricos. On Tuesday I had an interview for my internship. I will be working 20 hours a week at Jesuit Services for Migrants and Refugess. What this will involve, I have no idea. I just know I start Monday.

Last night was the kick-off of what we have decided to call "The Bourgie Weekend." This involves rounds of Pilsener and Vodka Tonics near the incredibly gringocentric Mariscal district, coffees in hip cafes, and even venturing into a huge mall in search of track pants where we ran into some Minnesotans (of course.)

After this Bourgie Weekend, the general concensus is "if it´s not sketchy, we´re not doing it."

Just kidding (knd of) However, we will be looking for ways to enjoy Ecuador in an ecuadorian way...whatever that may be.

Hopefully I´ll be able to post some photos soon. I always forget to bring my camera to the net cafes....

For now, another delicious lunch with my host family, Parque Elijido, and a rock climbing wall (we can´t decide if that´s bourgie or not...)

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Somedays, you go to Quito and things get crazy.

Currently, I´m experiencing this strange feeling that one gets when they´ve been in a new place for a week, and they´re starting to feel at home little by little, but a lot of things are still super foreign.

Foreign, uncomfortable things include:
-Navigating any bus line besides the Ecovia.
-Missing home more than I ever ever ever thought I would.
-Using proper grammar.
-Not being able to walk alone at night because I am a woman, and American.
-In internship without concrete projects and goals.
-Traffic. Pollution.

Things I am having no problem getting used to:
-Yoga in Parque Metropolitano.
-The view. Everywhere.
-A HUGE multitude of free events including a series of foreign films exploring the theme of imigration, urban art exhibitions, and symposiums on indigenous and GLBTQ rights.
-$.25 to take the bus anywhere you want.
-Sitting around the HECUA office discusing neo-liberalism in Latin America and Marxist theory.
-Pilsener.

Somethings are scary, somethings are fun, somethings are hard, somethings are interesting. Somedays I cry a lot, somedays I can´t believe I´m actaully here, somedays are super fun, some people are nice, some people are kind of mean, some people are sexist, some people are inspiring.

Everyday is beautiful, everyday is super challenging, everyday my emotions are really mixed.

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Hola de Quito

So far, so good.

Quito is incredibly beautiful. Today is sunny and about 70 degrees. Flowers and people everywhere.

I´ve already fallen in love the art of Oswaldo Quayasamin and locros de papas.

My host family is wonderful and very welcoming. I´ve never had so much soup and rice in such a short period of time. My family here tends to eat a lot of fresh, natural foods. This usually translates to whole grain cereal with fruit in the morning paired with a drink called Kauffe'which is kind of like instant coffee, except there´s also lots of barley, wheat, malt, and ginseng in it. Very delicious.

To be completely honest, the first 36 hours here were far more difficult than I thought they would be. Now, Quito is starting to feel like home.

I´ve yet to brave the bus system alone, as my house is only 2 blocks away from the HECUA office. Pretty convenient.

I have a few hours until lunch, I think I´ll start exploring my neighborhood.

Saturday, September 1, 2007

Before I go.

One day, I was in an 8th grade Spanish class, and the idea of studying in some Latin American country crept into my consciousness. Over the course of six or seven years, the idea grew and grew and grew and never went away.

Now, I'm leaving for Ecuador for 3 1/2 months on Monday morning.

Simply stated, there just aren't proper words to articulate my feelings.

I'm excited beyond reason.

The basics:

-I'll be in Quito, Ecuador, apart from a few trips within the country/region.

-I'll receive a semester worth's of credit, and taking one "traditional" course entitled Community Participation and Social Change. Awesome.

-I'll have an internship (for credit.) At this time, I'm still unsure what organization I'll be working for. Once I'm in-country, there will be some interviews to find something tuned to my interests and experiences. At this time, it sounds like two options are working with Colombian refugees displaced as a result of Plan Colombia OR an perhaps advocating for indigenous communties affected by oil extraction in the Amazon basin. Awesome.

-Additional credits will come from a Seminar and Field study which will involve further reseach in areas of interest and several field trips to Afro Ecuadorian and Indigenous communties within Ecuador. Awesome.

-There will be 10 other students, all from the U.S., some from Minnesota, and 2 others from St. Thomas. Awesome.

-I will be speaking Spanish, and only Spanish. Awesome.

-My host family consists of a mother and a father, 3 sons, aged 25, 17, and 15, and a 20 year old daughter who will be in Costa Rica. They all practice yoga and are vegetarian. Awesome.

Regarding updates of this little blog, I will post as often as I can, as access to the good ol' www should be pretty easy. The goals of these posting are to update friends and family on my general going-ons, and it will also serve as an archive for this little trip. So bookmark this link, and check it often!

As always, I am at kaerickson@stthomas.edu. There's nothing I'd love more than email from you!

Much, much more to come.

I'll leave you with links to a video which goes into detail on how sweet the program I'm going with is, and also another video which going into detail on how sweet Ecuador is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TfqwwRgcMQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM-o1eesn4M